F 





LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 

Clia^..7-4 Copyright No.. 

Shells. J13.W5' 



UNfTED STATES OF AMERICA. 



^'^>r ^^ 




ANNALS 

AND REMINISCENCES 



OF 



JAMAICA PLAIN 



BY 



HARRIET MANNING WHITCOMB 



t 



CAMBRIDGE 

printed at t$e (Riijersifte (press 

1897 



Vv.' 




\^, H ti r^ tr 






Copyright, 1897, 
By HARRIET MANNING WHITCOMB. 



All rights reserved. 



This sketch was prepared by request 
to be read before the Jamaica Plain 
Ladies' Tuesday Club. Subsequently a 
desire was expressed to have it put in 
more permanent form and offered for 
sale at a Fair for the benefit of the 
Jamaica Plain Indian Association. Al- 
though personally reluctant to appear 
before the public in this way, I have 
allowed my desire to aid a good cause 
and give pleasure to friends who have 
kindly received my paper to influence me 
in its publication. 

I am indebted to " The Memorial His- 
tory of Boston," to Drake's "Town of 
Roxbury," to Dr. Thomas Gray's "Half- 
Century Sermon," and to the memory of 
a few of the older residents for some of 
the dates and incidents given. 



If any of these should prove to be 
inaccurate, I must rely upon the charity 
and courtesy of my readers for only in- 
dulgent criticism. 



H. M. W. 



ANNALS AND REMINISCENCES OF 
JAMAICA PLAIN 

To collect and review the circumstances 
and events which have made our homes 
and those of our ancestors for many gen- 
erations is more than a pleasant service. 
We find an interest and fascination in 
every step of the way, leading us, as it 
does, into one of the most delightful 
portions of our country, and introducing 
us to not a few of the most refined and 
cultivated, as well as distinguished people 
of New England. 

There is ever a charm about old-fash- 
ioned people and places, as about old 
books and pictures, antique furniture and 
china ; they affect us by the very contrast 
they afford with ourselves and our sur- 
roundings, even though it is with a touch 
of pathos and sadness. 

Long years ago a much traveled man, 



6 ANNALS AND REMINISCENCES 

who knew our country well, said, "Jamaica 
Plain is the Eden of America." He was 
not a Bostonian, and our village was still 
a part of Roxbury, so that the suggestion 
of conceit and boasting over this small 
portion of "the Hub" could not be im- 
puted to him. 

It has often seemed to us that the lov- 
ing, favoring smile of heaven rested pe- 
culiarly upon our plain, environed as it is 
by gently rising hills, which, with their 
robes of verdure and noble trees, shelter 
it from harsh winds, and hold it in the 
warmth and freedom of a pure health- 
giving atmosphere. Our charming lake, 
covering more than sixty-five acres, nestles 
like a gem in its western borders, mirror- 
ing forms and colors, all of beauty, and 
holds upon its banks some of the most 
delightful of our homes. 

In early days it gave of its clear, soft 
waters for the needs of the neighboring 
city ; ^ while through the eastern portion 

^ The Jamaica Plain Aqueduct Company was incor- 
porated in 1795, and was the first systematic water sys- 



OF JAMAICA PLAIN ^ 

of our village the quiet Stony River made 
glad the farms and yielded power for mill 
and factory. 

We find that the name originally given 
our village was Pond Plain, but, as early 
as 1667, it is referred to in an official 
paper as the " Jamaica End of the Town 
of Roxbury." 

There are differing opinions as to the 
origin of the present name; some have 
so far reflected upon our colonial ances- 
tors as to intimate that a decided fondness 
for Jamaica rum suggested it, and it is 
doubtless true that the punch bowl had 
other uses than to be simply ornamental 
on the sideboards of our grandsires. 
Others, however, believe that it was given 
to commemorate Cromwell's acquisition 
of the island of Jamaica, in 1670, which 

tern that the city of Boston had. It extended from the 
Pond to Fort Hill, and had about forty-five miles of 
pipes, made of white pine logs, nearly a foot and one 
half in diameter, with a bore of five and three quarters 
inches. The average daily supply was about 400,000 
gallons. In excavating for the Subway, several speci- 
mens of the old wooden pipes have been unearthed in a 
good state of preservation. — From a recent number of 
the Boston Transcript. 



8 ANNALS AND REMINISCENCES 

secured to Boston numerous very valuable 
products. There seems, to us, to be a 
peculiar appropriateness to the name, as 
it signifies in Indian " Isle of Springs," 
because of the brooks and springs which 
abounded here, making the land verdant 
and fertile. If we cannot to-day boast of 
grand and stately castles, reared in the 
olden time, as in the mother country, with 
guarding moat and bastions, loopholes 
for crossbows and guns, — silent testimo- 
nials of opulence and power, — we yet can 
bring to view pictures of many a dwelling, 
gray and brown with weather stains and 
lichens and folds of ivy, which have held 
within their walls of oak and cedar people 
and events whose records thrill our hearts 
with patriotic pride or affectionate rever- 
ence. 

In the early times our village was 
chiefly an agricultural community, and 
the cultivation of fruits and vegetables for 
the city supply was the specialty; but 
here and there were elegant country-seats 
occupied by government officials, profes- 
sional and literary men, and city mer- 



OF JAMAICA PLAIN 9 

chants. Some of these homes and people 
we hope to see, by favoring records and 
memory's aid, this afternoon. 

Until within a short time, near the 
Boylston Station, stood a very ancient 
building, with a pitched roof in the rear 
sloping nearly to the ground, known as 
the " Curtis Homestead." It is claimed 
that this was one of the oldest houses in 
our country, and that, in 1639,^ William 
Curtis made a clearing in the forest for 
it, using the timbers in its construction 
from his felled trees. The record is that 
William Curtis married Sarah Eliot, sister 
of Rev. John Eliot, in Nazing, England, 
in 1618, and that, in 1632, they came 
with their four children to Boston, and 
it is believed that most of those who bear 
the name of Curtis in our country are 
direct descendants of this William and 
Sarah. For about two hundred and fifty 
years this house was the home of the 
Curtises, the last occupants being the 
widow and children of Isaac, seventh in 
descent from William. 

^ The first dwelling, built in 1633, was a simple log 
house, and was burned three or four years later. 



lO ANNALS AND REMINISCENCES 

During the siege of Boston, troops 
were quartered here and added their 
record of strife and suffering to that of 
domestic peace and happiness, in which 
the " Apostle EHot " and his estimable 
wife often shared ; and possibly Winthrop, 
Pynchon, and the Dudleys, and others 
whose names stand as pioneers of religious 
liberty in New England. 

Emerson has aptly said, " There has 
never been a clearing made in a forest, 
that did not let in the light on heroes and 
heroines." 

A few years since, the march of im- 
provement, so called, obliterated this gen- 
uine relic of colonial days, with the fine 
old elm, which for more than a century 
had shaded it and wafted kindly breezes 
over it. 

Although we have no knowledge that 
the Apostle Eliot ever lived in the " Ja- 
maica End of Roxbury," he is closely 
identified with our early history and 
development, and deserves more than a 
passing notice. In 1689 he gave some 
seventy-five acres of land, including the 



OF JAMAICA PLAIN II 

tract lying from Orchard to Thomas, and 
from 'Centre to Pond streets, " the income 
from which was to be used for the support 
of a school and a schoolmaster." The 
street, hall, and schoolhouse, which bear 
his name, commemorate his generous 
gift. This noble man stands out in those 
early days as a beacon light, shedding an 
influence for godliness, for education, and 
for truest philanthropy. Perhaps, in no 
sphere of his remarkable life does he more 
command our admiration and reverence 
than as the friend of the Indian and the 
negro. His untiring zeal and self-deny- 
ing labors in their behalf entitle him to 
be called " the Apostle." 

In a letter to a friend in 1659, he 
writes : " Pity for the poor Indian, and 
desire to make the name of Christ chief 
in these dark ends of the earth, and not 
the rewards of men, were the very first 
and chief movers in my heart." Nor can 
we question that these were the all con- 
trolling motives, when we consider that 
after acquiring their language, by the aid 
of a young Pequot, he translated the 



12 ANNALS AND REMINISCENCES 

entire Bible into their tongue, besides a 
psalter, primers, grammars, and other use- 
ful books ; and all this in addition to 
faithfully fulfilling the duties of minister 
of the First Church in Roxbury for fifty- 
eight years, a record of devotion, diligence, 
and scholarship almost unequaled. 

One has beautifully summed up his 
life in these words : ^ " His missionary zeal 
was not less than Saint Paul's, his charity 
was as sweet as that of Saint Francis 
d'Assisi, and his whole life a testimony 
that the call to saintliness has not ceased 
and the possibility of it has not died out." 
Eliot lived to see the fruits of his devoted 
work in the changed character and life 
of many of the Indians. More than two 
centuries have elapsed since this leader 
in the Indian cause went to his reward, 
but his mantle rests to-day on some here 
who deeply feel the need and love the 
work in behalf of the poor Indian. 

In 1663 our Centre Street was laid 
out and called the Dedham road or high- 

1 An historical sketch of the First Church in Roxbury, 
by Dr. De Normandie. 



OF JAMAICA PLAIN I3 

way, being a direct route from Boston, by 
way of " the Neck " and Roxbury Street, 
to Dedham. At that time and for more 
than one hundred and fifty years after 
travehng was by horseback, by private 
carriage, and by the stage-coach. Those 
who were unable to own horses or pay 
staee fares walked to and from Boston, 
often heavily laden. 

The accommodation stages would stop 
for passengers along the route, blowing 
a horn as they approached the dwelling, 
wherever a signal had been placed for 
them. The express stages, used chiefly 
by business men, running from Providence 
and the New York boat, took no heavy 
baggage, required double pay, and made 
stops only as they needed relays of horses. 
Four such changes were made from 
Providence to Boston, and the journey 
was completed in about four hours. In 
1826 the first Jamaica Plain hourlies^ be- 
gan to run ; the fare was twenty-five cents. 

1 One of the old omnibuses was very long, and named 
Osceola, for an Indian chief, a representation of whom 
was painted on the side. 



14 ANNALS AND REMINISCENCES 

They started from Mr. Joshua Seaver's 
store, and would call for passengers in 
any part of the village as requested in the 
order-box. 

Mr. Seaver's store, established in 1796, 
stood on slightly elevated ground farther 
back from the street than the one now 
occupied by his grandsons, and connected 
with his dwelling. 

Here, also, was the village post-office 
for many years, and the favorite meeting- 
place of the townspeople to discuss local 
interests, indulge in pleasantries, as well 
as exchange their coins for fine groceries, 
small wares, and farming utensils. Our 
grandparents of that day folded their 
quarto sheets, sealed, stamped, and ad- 
dressed them, and paid twelve and one 
half cents for the privilege of sending 
them on their mission,^ The advent of 
the two-cent postage stamp and the one- 
cent card was not then dreamed of. 

Entering Centre Street at the Railroad 

^ At the time to which we refer, postage was regu- 
lated by distance. Thus, 6\, i2|^, i6f, and even 25 
cents, were sometimes necessary. 



OF JAMAICA PLAIN 15 

bridge, frequently confounded with the 
historic Hog's Bridge/ which formerly 
spanned Stony Brook near Heath Street, 
we see on the right all that remains of the 
once extensive and very beautiful estate 
of the Lowells, a family among the most 
honored in our State for character, learn- 
ing, and culture. The original house, 
built of stone in the latter part of the last 
century, was modeled from an old castle 
in Europe, and became the property of 
Judge John Lowell in 1785, who resided 
here until his death in 1802. He was 
President of the Massachusetts Society 
for promoting agriculture, and his exten- 
sive grounds were largely devoted to the 
cultivation of a variety of the finest fruits 
and plants. His son, Hon. John Lowell, 
inherited this estate and the talent and 
fondness for horticulture and agriculture, 
and added several fine glass houses, which 
he filled with rare and beautiful plants, 
many of them imported from Europe and 

1 For the origin of this peculiar name, see the inci- 
dent which gave rise to it described in Drake's Town 
of Roxbury. 



l6 ANNALS AND REMINISCENCES 

other foreign lands. He erected the 
present commodious mansion. The aged 
lady who has occupied the house until 
recently was a sister of Dr. Charles 
Lowell, once minister of the West Church, 
Boston, and father of Hon. James Russell 
Lowell. The Lowell Institute for free 
lectures on scientific, literary, and religious 
themes was founded by John Lowell, Jr. 

In 1S34 the Boston and Providence 
Railroad cut through this estate, and from 
time to time other innovations have de- 
spoiled it of its grandeur and beauty. 

We pass several ancient houses, with 
associations doubtless dear to the descend- 
ants of their first owners, but unknown 
to us, and come to Hyde's Square, at the 
intersection of Centre, Perkins, and Day 
streets. The triangle in the centre, bor- 
dered with shade trees, had a valuable 
landmark on it, not a dwelling, but an 
old pump, which, if it could voice its 
memories, would tell us interesting tales 
of weary, dusty travelers, in vehicles, on 
horseback, and on foot, of stage-coach 
horses, and those of heavy-laden teams 



OF JAMAICA PLAIN 17 

from far away, to which it had given its 
cooling, refreshing waters, through nearly 
every day and hour of bygone years. 

And now, after a few rods, we come to 
the well preserved old farmhouse, the 
Joseph Curtis homestead, built in 1722 
by Samuel Curtis, grandson of the first 
William, for his son Joseph. A descend- 
ant with the same name, and fifth in 
line from William, now resides here, while 
the broad acres adjoining, bordering the 
street with graceful elms, smile with the 
fruits of careful husbandry, and afford 
ample space for the beautiful homes of 
four generations of the same family. 
During the war of the Revolution troops, 
from Rhode Island, under General Greene, 
used this house for barracks, the family 
willingly giving up its space and comforts 
for their accommodation. 

On the corner of Centre and Boylston 
streets one is attracted by a quaint and 
picturesque dwelling, in style and setting 
one of the most interesting of the older 
houses of our town, which tells the story 
of its age on one of its chimneys, 1738 



l8 ANNALS AND REMINISCENCES 

being the date. It was erected by Captain 
Benjamin Hallowell, who married a Miss 
Boylston, of Boston, whose family was 
prominent in its early history. He was 
a hot-headed, active loyalist, and commis- 
sioner of His Majesty's customs, as well 
as mandamus councilor, which facts made 
him obnoxious to the public, and in 1775, 
during the siege of Boston, he found it 
wise to hastily vacate his house and seek 
refuge in the city. The house was then 
appropriated by the patriotic troops for a 
hospital, and some of the soldiers who 
died were buried in the lot in the rear 
of the house. Later the property was 
confiscated by the State, and, in 1791, 
bought by Dr. Leprilete, who resided here 
until his death. He also was buried 
in the garden, and a memorial tablet 
marked the grave until the remains were 
removed to a cemetery. Upon the death 
of Captain Hallowell in England, the es- 
tate was reclaimed by his widow. His 
son, Nicholas Ward, then took his mo- 
ther's name of Boylston and inherited the 
property. Mr. Boylston was a gentleman 



OF JAMAICA PLAIN 19 

of true culture, education, and philan- 
thropy, making valuable donations to 
Harvard College, and to several schools. 
He is justly honored by having his name 
perpetuated not only by our street and 
district, but by a bank, market, school, 
and street in the city proper. Dr. Ben- 
jamin F. Wing purchased this property 
in 1845, and it has remained in his family 
to the present time. 

In 1797, just one hundred years ago, 
was erected the stately brick mansion 
which, with the ample grounds extending 
to the pond, was called " Lakeville." Mr. 
Du Ballett first resided here; later it 
was the home of Horatio Greenough, 
the sculptor, and it is said that he carved 
his celebrated group, " The Chanting 
Cherubs," while living here. In 1840 
Lakeville Place was opened, dividing this 
estate, and later made beautiful by the 
several residences upon it. Since 1842 
the Lakeville mansion has been the home 
of Mr. Thomas W. Seaverns and family. 
The inception of the Episcopal Church 
in our village was largely due to Mr. 



20 ANNALS AND REMINISCENCES 

Charles Beaumont, father of Mr. Frank 
Beaumont, who resided in the Lakeville 
mansion in 1833. The first services 
were held here, and later in the Village 
Hall on Thomas Street, Rev. Mr. Howe 
of St. James Church, Roxbury, officiating. 
In 1840 a lot of land was purchased of 
Mr. Charles Beaumont on the site of the 
present St John's Street, and a chapel 
built which was consecrated in 1841 by 
Bishop Griswold. The rectory was com- 
pleted in 1849, and " was paid for, in large 
part, with money raised by the exertions 
of the Ladies' League." Many of us re- 
member the attractive avenue, bordered 
with greensward and graceful elms, which 
led to the little brown church and rec- 
tory, the retirement of its situation seem- 
ing to be suited to its purpose of worship 
and quietness. The membership was 
very small at first, but in a few years it 
became the church home of some of the 
most influential people in our town. 
Rev. E. F. Slafter was the first regularly 
settled rector, assuming his duties Sep- 
tember, 1846. The beautiful stone edifice 



OF JAMAICA PLAIN 21 

erected upon land bequeathed by General 
William H. Sumner, son of Governor 
Increase Sumner, was ready for the en- 
larged church and congregation in 1882. 

General Sumner's old residence on the 
hill near the present church is beautiful 
in situation, and still very attractive. 

Near the north corner of Pond Lane 
was built, in 1732, a plain, comfortable 
house by Benjamin May, great grandson 
of Captain John May, one of the earliest 
settlers of our village. Captain John 
Parker married the daughter of Benjamin 
May, and afterwards resided here for 
many years, which accounts for its still 
holdins: the name of the " old Parker 
house." Here were the high decorated 
wooden mantels over large chimney- 
places, the paneled wainscoting and or- 
namented cornices, which adorned many 
of the better houses of that period. The 
grounds were ample, extending to the 
pond, and covered with a variety of fine 
fruit and shade trees. Now crowded by 
modern buildings into the background, 
deprived of its garden, gray with weather 



22 ANNALS AND REMINISCENCES 

stains, this old house shows few signs of 
its birthright. About the middle of this 
century the small cottage still standing 
on the lot adjoining the Parker house 
was the quiet home of two much esteemed 
old ladies, Mrs. Shepard and her daugh- 
ter Abby. The mother was then totally 
blind, but possessed the sweet content- 
ment which not even so great a depriva- 
tion and trial could affect. Miss Abby 
devoted the little front room to a store 
for small wares, school children's utensils, 
and candies, and it was the delight of the 
girls and boys to leave their coppers there 
in exchange for her good things. 

Some of you may recall an episode 
connected with this home which might 
have had a tragic ending. Because of 
their unprotected condition, and the 
drawer in which the small receipts from 
the store were kept, an unworthy young 
man, belonging to our village, planned 
a midnight entrance. Miss Abby heard 
the window raised, and, in her night robe 
and cap, faced the intruder, just as he 
had entered the room. She dragged the 



OF JAMAICA PLAIN 23 

surprised and struggling man into the 
front room, and held him fast, meanwhile 
calling loudly for help. The aged mother 
secured a window stick, and dealt uner- 
ring blows upon the youth. After a des- 
perate struggle, he escaped, carrying a 
window frame and many bruises with 
him, but no money. The neighbors 
were aroused by Miss Shepard's cries 
and came to her relief. 

We may safely say that not since the 
war of the Revolution had the midnight 
silence and peace of our village been dis- 
turbed by so exciting an experience. The 
friends of Miss Shepard presented her 
with a large, illustrated Bible in apprecia- 
tion of her courage and bravery. 

On the west corner of Pond and Centre 
streets stands a large mansion house of 
colonial style, with an air of quiet dignity, 
in the midst of attractive grounds. In 
early days it was called " Linden Hall," 
doubtless because of the magnificent lin- 
den-trees which lined the walk to the 
entrance and shaded the grounds. It was 
erected in 1755 by John Gould for his 



24 ANNALS AND REMINISCENCES 

son-in-law Rev. John Troutbeck, assistant 
rector of King's Chapel, where he offici- 
ated for twenty years. 

He was an ardent loyalist and returned 
to England in 1776. As an example of 
the change in public sentiment with the 
lapse of time, we learn that this noted 
clergyman was a distiller as well, of whom 
a witty rhymester wrote : — 

" His Sunday aim is to reclaim 
Those that in vice are sunk. 
When Monday 's come he selleth rum, 
And gets them plaguey drunk." 

This fine estate, extending then in the 
rear to the pond, was later owned by Mr. 
Charles W. Greene, a descendant of Gen- 
eral Nathanael Greene, of revolutionary 
fame. He enlarged the house by the ad- 
dition of another story and large wings, 
and established a successful boarding and 
day school for lads, fitting many of them 
for college. Possibly some here may recall 
that in the school building on the grounds 
the first Papanti taught some of the 
parents of the rising generation to dance. 

Among the men, since famous, who 



OF JAMAICA PLAIN 25 

graduated from this school, are John 
Lothrop Motley, the historian, and George 
William Curtis, the elegant writer and 
able editor. The scenes and characters 
in Mr. Curtis's novel " Trumps " were 
drawn from our village. Dr. Randall, of 
Roxbury, but recently deceased, who be- 
queathed $70,000 to Harvard University, 
was early a student in this school, and also 
the two brothers of Margaret Fuller, one 
of whom was afterwards a clergyman and 
a chaplain in the Union army. Mrs. 
Greene is referred to in an interesting 
article recently written by a graduate of 
the school, as one " for whom no meed of 
praise could scarcely be excessive, as she 
was in sober truth a mother to every lad 
committed to her care." 

This property was next purchased by 
the brothers John and George Williams, 
who resided here for several years. 

On the opposite side of Centre Street, 
near Green Street, can to-day be seen a 
two-story cottage, with pointed roofs and 
dormer windows, which in our day has 
been known as the Calvin Young house. 



26 ANNALS AND REMINISCENCES ■ 

This building with its fresh paint and 
modern style can yet trace its history 
through a century and a half of years. 
It was originally owned by Eleazer May, 
who sold it in 1740 to Benjamin Faneuil, 
nephew of Peter Faneuil, and in 1 760 it 
became the property of his brother-in-law 
Benjamin Pemberton. 

We may readily believe that Peter Fan- 
euil — the Huguenot who in 1 740 erected 
and gave to the town of Boston the 
noted hall which bears his name — often 
shared in the comforts and joys of this 
home of his niece, Mrs. Susanna Pember- 
ton. About the year 1802, this estate 
was purchased by Dr. John C. Warren, 
son of Dr. John Warren, and nephew of 
General Joseph Warren, hero of Bunker 
Hill, for a summer residence. He was 
one of the most distinguished surgeons 
of our country, and for many years pro- 
fessor of anatomy and surgery at the Har- 
vard Medical School. His name was 
honored in the recent ether celebration, 
he having performed the first surgical 
operation under ether in 1846, and to his 



OF JAMAICA PLAIN 2/ 

sanction it owed its introduction through- 
out America and Europe. 

The dweUing was at that time con- 
structed after the West Indian style, with 
one story and a half front and two in the 
rear. An immense chimney buttressed 
the north side ; a hall extended through 
the centre of the house, with doors open- 
ing on to piazzas at both ends ; the win- 
dows in the front rooms extended to the 
floor, all conducing to make it an ideal 
summer home. The elm, linden, and 
horse-chestnut trees near the house were 
remarkable for size and symmetry. 

Dr. Warren beautified the grounds with 
rare plants and shrubs imported from 
Europe ; they extended over many acres, 
including the present Hill, Parley Vale, 
Burraee, and Harris estates, and to the 
line of the Providence Railroad. Captain 
Charles Hill purchased a portion of this 
estate about the year 1830, and Mr. Calvin 
Young the residence in 1837, when the 
radical alterations in the house, which are 
apparent to-day, were made. 

About the year 1828, the Warren 



28 ANNALS AND REMINISCENCES 

estate became the property of Samuel G. 
Goodrich, author of many histories, books 
of travel, school and story books, the 
kindly, well-loved Peter Parley of our 
childhood. What a delight it would be 
to welcome once more the monthly visit 
of " Merry's Museum and Parley's Maga- 
zine," to read the charming letters to 
" Billy Bump," the adventures of Gilbert 
Go Ahead, and puzzle out the charades 
and enigmas which tested our youthful 
wits ! It was Mr. Goodrich who cut the 
fine avenue through the ledges and wood- 
land, and erected the ample mansion in 
the grove, which later, because of financial 
embarrassment, he transferred to Colonel 
Fessenden, and ultimately became the 
property of Mr. Abram French. Then 
it was that Mr. Goodrich enlarged and 
improved the building which had been his 
gardener's cottage, making the quaint and 
unique house now owned by Mr. George 
Harris. Here he resided for several years, 
accomplishing a large amount of literary 
work, which repaired his fortune, so that 
on his return from Paris, where he was 



OF JAMAICA PLAIN 29 

United States Ambassador, under Presi- 
dent Fillmore, he purchased a country- 
seat in Jube's Lane, now Forest Hills 
Street. Mr. Goodrich was in Paris at the 
time of the abdication of Louis Philippe, 
was an intimate friend of M. Lamartine, 
and was of great service through his wise 
diplomacy. Many of his works were 
afterwards translated into French by M. 
du Boisson. While a resident here he was 
interested in our local affairs, and was 
genial in his relations with every one. It 
is related that, on an occasion of a Fourth 
of July celebration, he gave an after- 
dinner toast, " To the ladies of Jamaica 
Plain, not so very plain either ! " 

Here we are tempted to linger for a 
little longer. We may not be permitted 
'to enter within the precincts of many of 
the old homes in our town, to view the 
veritable memorials and relics of early 
days, but such has been the privilege of 
some of us in connection with the Harris 
home. Through many generations of 
education and culture, treasures in books 
and music and pictures, in furniture, plate, 



30 ANNALS AND REMINISCENCES 

and china, have been collected and pre- 
served, until the home has become verily 
a museum of rare and beautiful works, 
whose possessor is eminently suited to 
these delightful surroundings. 

Nor can we fail to offer an appreciative 
and loving tribute to the two sisters who 
have been among our most learned and 
accomplished women, and have exempli- 
fied through their long lives the quiet 
beauty and loveliness of true charity. 
The beautiful hill with the adjacent vale, 
now occupied by the fine estates of Mrs. 
Hook, Mrs. Pratt, and Mr. and Mrs. 
Charles F. Sprague, was in the early days 
the Harris homestead. Here Dr. Luther 
M. Harris, the father, was born. Some 
of us remember him as the valued family 
physician, who, when burdened with the 
infirmities of age, gave up his practice to 
Dr. George Faulkner. 

One of the most interesting and attrac- 
tive of the ancestral homes still stand- 
ing, in this vicinity, is the Greenough 
mansion, finely situated on the curve of 
Centre and South streets. It has an air 



OF JAMAICA PLAIN 31 

of dignity and spaciousness which many 
a more pretentious modern country-seat 
fails to match. Although it has been the 
home of five generations of the Green- 
ough family, — since about the year 
1 780, — its history antedates their own- 
ership by many years. This estate was 
originally of royal dimensions, covering 
about one hundred acres, and belonged 
to John Policy. In 1752 it was pur- 
chased by Commodore Joshua Loring, 
one of the Tory gentry, who a few years 
later built the present house (1758), 
the frame having been brought from Eng- 
land. Commodore Loring was a native 
of Roxbury, and did gallant service in 
the British navy, in the campaigns against 
Canada. He was severely wounded at 
the siege of Quebec while in command 
on Lake Ontario, and was retired on half 
pay when he came to live here. Al- 
though probably at heart in sympathy 
with those who resisted the injustice of 
the English government, for personal 
reasons he adhered to the royal cause, 
and, on the morning of the battle of Lex- 



32 ANNALS AND REMINISCENCES 

ington, he left his home and everything 
belonging to it, and mounting his horse, 
" with pistol in hand, rode at full speed to 
Boston." He never returned, but sailing 
for England soon after settled in High- 
gate. During the siege of Boston this 
house was the headquarters of General 
Greene, and has the honor of having 
been visited by General George Wash- 
ington. Colonel David Henley, who had 
charge of Burgoyne's captive army while 
at Cambridge, also occupied this house at 
one time. For a while, it was converted 
into a hospital for the Roxbury Camp, 
and some fifty of the soldiers who died 
here were buried on the grounds, near 
where the Hillside schoolhouse now 
stands. The remains have since been 
removed to the old burial ground on 
Walter Street. This property also was 
confiscated, by order of the General 
Court of April 30, 1779, and was then 
purchased by Colonel Isaac Sears, a suc- 
cessful Boston merchant, who had been 
one of the most active and zealous of 
the Sons of Liberty, and a member of 



OF JAMAICA PLAIN 33 

the Provincial Congress. Soon after 
(in 1 784) it became the property of the 
first David Stoddard Greenough, son of 
Thomas Greenough, who had been a mem- 
ber of the Committee of Correspondence 
in the Revolution. 

It was in 1769 that the first church 
in our village was built, upon land given 
by Eliot, — on the site of the present 
stone edifice, — and named the Third 
Parish, from its relation to the First Par- 
ish on Dudley Street and the Second or 
Upper Parish on Walter Street. And it 
was to Mrs. Susanna, wife of Benjamin 
Pemberton, that it owed its origin. The 
distance from the other churches, and 
consequent inconvenience of regular at- 
tendance, led her to desire a nearer church 
home. She proposed to her husband, 
who possessed large means and had no 
children or near relations, that they 
should erect a house of worship, princi- 
pally at their own expense. He heartily 
engaged in the project, "and in the 
course of a year the house was com- 
pleted, with thirty-four square pews, and 



34 ANNALS AND REMINISCENCES 

three long seats for the poor on each side 
the broad aisle next the pulpit on the 
ground floor. There were five narrow 
long pews [for the colored people, several 
of them slaves] in the front gallery against 
the wall, and long seats for the singers 
below." ^ 

The Rev. William Gordon, a Scotch- 
man by birth, entered upon his duties as 
first pastor, July 6, 1772. A few months 
later Mr. Pemberton conveyed to the par- 
ish the house which had been removed 
from Commodore Loring's estate to the 
site now occupied by Mrs. Dr. Weld's 
house, next to the church for a parson- 
age. It was occupied by Mr. Gordon 
during the remainder of his pastorate, 
and by Dr. Thomas Gray, the second pas- 
tor, for sixty years.^ In 185 1 the old house 
was moved to South Street, and later to 

1 Dr. Thomas Gray's Half-Ce)ihiry Sermott. 

2 Dr. Thomas Gray was born in Boston, JNIarch i6, 
1772, and graduated at Harvard College in 1790. He 
married a daughter of Rev. Samuel Stillman, D. D., 
pastor of the First Baptist Church in Boston, by whom 
he was prepared for the ministry, and entered the pas- 
torate at Jamaica Plain, April 22, 1792. 



OF JAMAICA PLAIN 35 

Keyes Street, where it still stands. On 
account of a disagreement with Dr. Gor- 
don Mr. Pemberton altered his will, in 
which he had first bequeathed all of his 
property to this parish " for the support 
of his future pastors," and left it " in trust 
for the benefit of the poor of the town of 
Boston ; " and the income of the fund is 
still used for this specific purpose. Pem- 
berton Square, once lined with many of 
the fine residences in Boston, and now 
the site of our new court-house, honors 
his name. 

The first bell on the old church was 
presented by Governor John Hancock, in 
1783, then a resident here, and bore the 
inscription, " Thomas Lester, of London, 
made me, 1 742." We can readily appre- 
ciate the happiness of the people when 
first called to their house of worship by 
the voice of this bell, and can weave 
threads of joy and of sadness around its 
echoes. In 1852 this old church was 
dismantled of its spire and removed to 
the site of the present Eliot Hall. It 
was subsequently destroyed by fire. While 



36 ANNALS AND REMINISCENCES 

the stone edifice was being erected the 
congregation occupied the Baptist Church 
one half of the Sabbath. 

We find Dr. WiUiam Gordon a very 
interesting character of the strict Puritan 
type. In a word-picture drawn by a 
friend, we see him when commissioned 
by Congress to secure Governor Hutchin- 
son's letter-books, " as he ambled on his 
gentle bay horse, in his short breeches 
and buckled shoes, his reverend wig and 
three-cornered hat, worthy the spirit of a 
native-born patriot." It may not be amiss 
to add that with all Dr. Gordon's admi- 
rable characteristics, his faithful work as 
a minister, his active interest in the cause 
of American liberty, his unwavering ad- 
herence to his convictions as an opponent 
to the slave trade, and a champion of the 
negro, he frequently lacked prudence and 
good judgment in speech and action. It 
was because of his severe and public 
criticism of John Hancock that the gov- 
ernor gave up his summer residence here ; 
it was because of his attack upon the 
proposed Constitution of Massachusetts, 



OF JAMAICA PLAIN 3/ 

in 1778, that he was summarily dis- 
missed from his office of chaplain in both 
houses of the Legislature. There is a 
tradition that the Doctor was somewhat 
strict and severe in his requirements of 
the young catechists, and on occasions he 
resorted to the birch to enforce his teach- 
ings. " After punishing several of them 
one winter day, his feet slipped as he 
stepped from the icy threshold of the 
school, and he fell at full length, his hat 
and w^io: rolling off his head. There- 
upon the boys shouted in high glee, and 
gave three cheers." The rod gave place 
to persuasion after that experience. 

The little cemetery in the rear of the 
church was consecrated in 1785. A quiet 
walk through this " garden of the dead " 
is full of interest, awakening memories 
and associations of the past. There are 
twenty-four tombs and many graves, upon 
whose ancient, moss-covered headstones 
we trace familiar names and some un- 
usual epitaphs. The tombs of Dr. Thomas 
Gray and of the Greenough family, side by 
side, are particularly noticeable, as, unlike 



38 ANNALS AND REMINISCENCES 

the others, they have a large bull's-eye of 
ground glass inserted in the doors, evi- 
dently to admit light into "the chamber of 
death." Very few interments have been 
made here since the consecration of For- 
est Hills Cemetery in 1848. Upon the 
small triangular lot at the junction of 
Centre and South streets the first school- 
house in our village was erected in 1676. 
The land was the gift of John Ruggles, 
and John Eliot and Hugh Thomas were 
the principal benefactors of the school. 
In early days this spot was the muni- 
cipal centre of our town ; and here, in 
1 87 1, was dedicated our beautiful Soldiers' 
Monument, in affectionate, grateful re- 
membrance of our heroic dead, who gave 
their lives in the service of their country 
during the Rebellion (1861-65). Eliot 
Street was opened to Pond Street in 
1800, and at the corner still stands an 
old milestone, inscribed : " Five miles to 
Boston Town House, 1735. P. Dudley." 
The Eliot School was incorporated in 
1804, and later, January 17, 1832, the 
brick building was dedicated which now 



OF JAMAICA PLAIN 39 

stands on Eliot Street in the centre of 
ample grounds. 

Within a few months we have witnessed 
with feelings of regretful interest the de- 
cay and removal of the old house known 
to us as the Nathaniel Curtis homestead. 
This estate once belonged to Dr. Lemuel 
Hayward, a physician of high repute, and 
one of the first to practice inoculation for 
small-pox in this vicinity. He practiced 
medicine here for several years. About 
the year 1780, John Hancock, after he re- 
signed the presidency of Congress, pur- 
chased this place of Dr. Hayward for his 
summer residence. He paid for it seven 
or eight shares in Long Wharf property, 
amounting then in all to about $400, but 
at the time of Dr. Hayvv^ard's decease, 
in 1 82 1, valued at $100,000, — a striking 
evidence of growth and financial prosper- 
ity in less than fifty years. We learn that 
the house was, like many of that period, 
one story and a half in height, covering 
much space on the ground, and shaded by 
fine linden-trees. We love to tarry here 
and do grateful honor to this first gov- 



40 ANNALS AND REMINISCENCES 

ernor of our new State, who, during our 
country's struggles for freedom, was one 
of the most fearless opposers of British 
tyranny, one of the most active of patriots, 
and the first signer of the Declaration of 
Independence. He was of fine, dignified 
presence, six feet in height, with a very 
handsome face and gracious manners. In 
public speaking he was eloquent, graceful, 
and accomplished, and plainly formed by 
nature to act a brilliant part in the affairs 
of his time. According to the customs 
of that period with men of fortune, his 
apparel was very elaborate and costly, of 
velvet and satin, embroidered with gold 
and silver lace. " His equipage was splen- 
did, and on public occasions he rode with 
six beautiful bay horses and attended by 
servants in livery." Much of his large 
fortune was spent for benevolent and use- 
ful purposes, Harvard College coming in 
for a share. In the year 1800, Thomas 
Hancock, nephew of the governor, built 
the house which has recently been de- 
stroyed, and resided here until 18 19, when 
the estate was purchased by Mr. Nathaniel 



OF JAMAICA PLAIN 4I 

Curtis, fifth in descent from the first 
William Curtis. He was a merchant of 
Boston, highly esteemed, and filled vari- 
ous positions of trust in our town. He 
resided here during the remainder of his 
Hfe, a period of thirty-eight years, and 
died in 1857. He married for his second 
wife the widow Leeds, who at the time 
was living in the old Stephen Brewer 
house, still standing at the end of Thomas 
Street, and which was afterwards for sev- 
eral years the home of Mr. William D. 
Ticknor, of the publishing house of Tick- 
nor & Fields. Mrs. Curtis lived in the 
old house for many years after her hus- 
band's death, until we missed the gentle, 
sweet face, and the kindly, cordial greet- 
in s^s — and the home was desolate. 

More than two hundred and fifty years 
have passed since the first John May, 
master of a vessel, came from Mayfield, 
in Sussex, England, and became a resident 
of Jamaica Plain, and the ancestor of the 
many who bear the name of May in this 
country. In 1650 the old house on May's 
Lane was built by Mr. Bridge, and since 



42 ANNAL^AND REMINISCENCES 

1 77 1 it has been owned and occupied 
by the direct descendants of John May. 
It has always been a typical New Eng- 
land fruit farm, noted for the fine quality 
of its cherries, peaches, pears, apples, and 
berries of various kinds. In the early 
days it covered many acres, including the 
beautiful hill now occupied by the fine 
estates of the Bowditch family and others, 
and the lowlands, extending north and 
east to Pond and Eliot streets. During 
the siege of Boston the house was given 
up to soldiers for barracks. Captain Lem- 
uel May was one of the minute-men 
who responded to the reveille at the break 
of day on the 19th of April, 1775, and 
fought valiantly for his country at Lex- 
ington and Concord. This house, of the 
seventeenth - century pattern, has main- 
tained its original features until very re- 
cently, carefully preserved from any sign 
of neglect or decay. Possibly a hasty 
view of the interior of the old homestead 
will interest us. Entering by the front 
porch, we find the small, square entry 
opens through narrow doorways into low- 



OF JAMAICA PLAIN 43 

studded, irregular shaped rooms, with 
overhead and corner beams and wain- 
scoted sides, triangular cupboards and 
dressers, and convenient little shelves. 
There are high wooden mantels, adorned 
with specimens of antique china and 
brasses over the large bricked fireplaces. 
In one room an iron crane, with kettles 
suspended on chains, swings over the fire- 
dogs piled with logs, and on both sides 
hang quaint domestic utensils. The nar- 
row stairway, from the little entry, has a 
halfway landing to economize space, and 
leads to cosy apartments above, all inter- 
esting for their antique furniture and fam- 
ily relics. 

And now a glance at the old square 
barn east of the house, and more preten- 
tious in size than the dwelling, with wide 
doors opening at both ends, and lofts 
stacked with fragrant hay. This is the 
comfortable home of faithful horses and 
gentle kine, who looked from their stalls 
and stanchions on the youths and maidens 
who often made the walls resound with 
their merriment as they were borne 



44 ANNALS AND REMINISCENCES 

quickly past in the old swing hanging 
from the creaking rafters. 

The well-curb, with its long sweep and 
old oaken bucket, brings memories, to 
some of us, of refreshing draughts of pure 
water, and of delicious cream and butter 
rolls, which the moss - covered stone 
shelves far down the well held securely 
from possible taint. Back of the house 
ran the babbling brook and emptied into 
" the ditch," which was often broad and 
deep enough to merit a more comely 
name, and was the favorite resort of the 
young in winter for skating and sledding. 
But this ancestral home, with all its 
charms, has passed from view, like many 
others, leaving but cherished memories. 

Captain Charles Brewer, whose fine 
estate on Pond Street was originally a 
part of the May farm, was a lineal de- 
scendant of Captain John May, on his 
mother's side. He was born in Boston 
in 1804, and received his education there, 
but early developed a fondness for the 
sea, and for several years was a success- 
ful ship-master in the Pacific and East 



OF JAMAICA PLAIN 45 

India trade. In 1836 he established a 
shipping business in Honolulu, and in 
1846 returned with his family to this 
country, and became a resident of the 
Plain.^ Soon after he erected the com- 
modious mansion in the midst of highly 
cultivated grounds, which was his home 
during the remainder of his life. 

Mr. Edward Bridge was one of the 
earliest settlers of the town, and it is be- 
lieved that he built the house, which has 
recently been taken down by the Park 
Commission, near the corner of Centre 
and May streets. The date 1710 was 
found cut into one of the old timbers, 
which is still preserved. 

Mr. Abijah Seaverns, grandfather of 
our townsman, resided here with his 
family for many years. The original 
Seaverns homestead, owned by Mr. Joel 
Seaverns, the ancestor of the family, 
was upon a farm of some fifty-five acres, 
now included in Forest Hills Cemetery. 
In this old house, during the later years 

^ His mother, Mrs. Abigail May, widow of Moses 
Brewer, was then living in the old homestead, and died 
April 24, 1849, aged 80 years. 



46 ANNALS AND REMINISCENCES 

of Mrs. Abijah Seaverns' life, a small 
band of the Baptist faith met frequently 
for religious meetings, and in 1840 took 
steps to form a church. Soon after they 
began worship in the Village Hall, and 
in 1842 the public services of their 
recognition were held in the Unitarian 
Church, in which Rev. Dr. Gray then 
ministered. On October 4, 1843, the 
new house of worship was dedicated, and 
on the same day Dr. John O. Choules, 
an Englishman, was installed as pastor. 
The little church stood on elevated 
ground on the east side of Centre Street 
near Star Lane. On September 26, 1856, 
this church was destroyed by fire, with 
its furniture, library, and records. For 
two years the congregation used the Uni- 
tarian house of worship one half of the 
Sabbath, and the Mather (now Central) 
Church for evening meetings, accepting 
the very kind invitations which came 
from both societies while the fire was 
still burning. In August, 1859, the pre- 
sent house of worship on the corner of 
Centre and Myrtle streets was dedicated. 



OF JAMAICA PLAIN 47 

Following May Street to Pond Street, 
we come to the beautiful estate now 
owned by Mr. Edward Rice, and formerly 
by Mr. John J. Low, and here ready fancy 
rears again the vanished walls of a stately 
mansion, three stories in height, first oc- 
cupied by another of the Tory gentry. Sir 
Francis Bernard, the royal governor of 
Massachusetts from 1 760 to 1 769, — the 
period of our greatest historic interest. 
The beautiful sloping lawn, shaded with 
lofty English elms, gave a charming set- 
ting to the house, while broad acres, 
highly cultivated, filled with choice fruit 
trees, plants, and shrubs, including orange, 
lemon, fig, cork, and cinnamon trees, and 
other rare exotics, added grandeur and 
beauty to the landscape. One can easily 
call back the old-time scenes within this 
mansion, of stately official pomp, of social 
gayety, of dinners and balls, where the 
dames and maidens were magnificent in 
brocade and satin and lace, in towering 
head-gear, and ample panniers; and where 
the cavaliers rivaled the ladies in their 
powdered wigs, gorgeous velvet coats and 



48 ANNALS AND REMINISCENCES 

satin waistcoats, ruffled shirt-fronts and 
cuffs, small breeches and silken hose. 
We catch a glimpse of them as they troop 
through the broad hall (fifty-four feet long 
and twenty feet wide), and the wainscoted 
tapestried rooms, in the stately minuet or 
the livelier contra-dances, and possibly 
recognize the forms and faces of Adams, 
Hancock, Otis, Warren, and Quincy. 
Governor Bernard was an Englishman, 
a graduate of Oxford, a man of erudition 
and large wealth. He had remarkable 
conversational powers, and so tenacious a 
memory that he boasted he could repeat 
all of Shakespeare's plays. He was a 
zealous advocate of the claims of the 
Crown, and though professing to sympa- 
thize with the men associated with him 
in their resistance to unjust taxation, and 
other coercive measures of the royal gov- 
ernment, he secretly w^orked against them, 
and used his influence to have the British 
regiments sent to Boston, and thus ini- 
tiated the war. After holding his high 
ofHce for nearly ten years, he was recalled 
to England, in response to a petition from 



OF JAMAICA PLAIN 49 

the House of Representatives that " he 
might be forever removed from the gov- 
ernment of the Province." As he de- 
parted from Boston the bells were rung, 
cannon fired from the wharves, and the 
Liberty Tree hung gayly with flags ; so 
great was the joy of the people to be rid 
of him. Lady Bernard did not leave 
Jamaica Plain until a year later — in 
1770. Sir William Pepperell was the 
next resident of this house for about 
three years. He was a graduate of Har- 
vard, and, in 1776, became a member of 
the Council, and was avowedly in sym- 
pathy with the royal cause. During the 
siege this house was also occupied by the 
patriotic troops, and later used as a hos- 
pital. The soldiers who died here were 
buried on the hill in the rear of the house. 
This property was confiscated in 1779 by 
the State, and purchased by Mr. Martin 
Brimmer, a Boston merchant, who died 
here in 1804. Captain John Prince next 
owned it, and took down the old house, a 
part of which had stood one hundred and 
forty years, and erected the very attract- 



50 ANNALS AND REMINISCENCES 

ive mansion which has recently given 
place to the one now occupied by Mr. 
Rice. Mr. Prince opened the street which 
bears his name through his estate to Per- 
kins Street, and it has since been the seat 
of several beautiful residences. 

The summer home of Francis Park- 
man, LL. D., on Prince Street, deserves 
more than a passing notice, not only be- 
cause of his great prominence as an his- 
torian and writer on scientific horticul- 
ture, but for the remarkable beauty of the 
grounds lying along the shores of the lake 
and covered with luxuriant and rare 
shrubs, trees, and plants, many of them 
models of symmetry and loveliness. One 
cannot but regret that this homestead has 
not been preserved in its completeness, 
as a memorial of this distinguished man. 

The old Jonas Chickering estate ad- 
joining Mr. Parkman's, with its lovely 
water-front, its unique gothic buildings, 
its vine-covered lodge, and its deer-park, 
was, in our early days, one of the most 
charming of our country-seats. 

Pinebank, the home of the Perkins 



OF JAMAICA PLAIN 5 1 

family for nearly a century, with its 
broad, winding avenue, beneath noble 
pines and larches, its stately mansion, its 
many rich landscape features, claimed ad- 
miration for its grandeur and nobility.^ 

Returning to South Street, we find 
that in early days different branches of 
the Weld family owned and lived upon 
estates in this portion of our village. 
The largest and most important of these 
was the estate which was given to Cap- 
tain Joseph Weld, by the Province, about 
the year 1660, in consideration of services 
rendered. It was bequeathed by him to 
his son John, and was the home of seven 
generations of that family, until about 
the beginning of this century (1806), 
when it became the property of Mr. 
Benjamin Bussey. During the Revolu- 
tionary War, Weld's Hill was selected by 
Washington as a rallying point for the 
patriot army to fall back upon in case of 
disaster, as it protected the road to Ded- 

^ Perkins Street, known in early days as Connecticut 
Lane, was named for William Perkins, who came to 
Roxbury in 1832. 



52 ANNALS AND REMINISCENCES 

ham, the depot of army suppHes. Mr. 
Bussey, after a few years, erected the fine 
mansion, still standing, and resided here 
until his death, in 1842. The late Mr. 
Thomas Motley, brother of the histo- 
rian, was the husband of one of Mr. 
Bussey 's granddaughters, and occupied 
the house with his family until his decease. 
This magnificent estate of three hundred 
acres was bequeathed to Harvard Uni- 
versity for the establishment of a semi- 
nary " for instruction in practical agricul- 
ture, useful and ornamental gardening, 
botany, and such other branches of natu- 
ral science as may tend to promote a 
knowledge of practical agriculture and 
the various arts subservient thereto and 
connected therewith." The Bussey In- 
stitute was built in 1871, and the beauti- 
ful Arboretum, embracing one hundred 
and sixty acres, has been in process of 
development since that time. During 
Mr. Bussey's life, and for years after, the 
public enjoyed the freedom of these 
charming grounds. There were lovely 
wood paths, carefully kept, in all direc- 



OF JAMAICA PLAIN 53 

tions. Here was a rustic bridge spanning 
the jocund brook ; there a willow-bordered 
pond, the home of gold and silver fish. 
This path wound back and forth to the 
summit of Hemlock Mountain, where 
was an arbor with seats for resting, sur- 
rounded by majestic trees, and where 
lovely vistas of the distant hills and nearer 
valley could be enjoyed. On the gray 
rocks yonder were nature's moss-clad 
seats, where one listened to the endless 
whispering of the leaves, the prattle of 
the happy brook below, and the ever- 
changing songs of birds. 

" up springs, at every step, to claim a tear, 
Some little friendship formed in childhood here; 
And not the lightest leaf but trembling teems 
With golden visions and romantic dreams." 

Mr. Bussey's life is a remarkable illus- 
tration of the success which results from 
natural ability and persevering industry. 
With very small pecuniary means in early 
life, he made the most of every condition 
and advantage, and ultimately acquired 
large wealth and influence. Possibly 
some here may remember the family 



54 ANNALS AND REMINISCENCES 

coach, with its yellow body and trim- 
mings, drawn by four fine horses, in which 
Mr. Bussey and his family rode to church 
each Sabbath. There is a pleasing tra- 
dition that the old gentleman had the 
unusual but very gracious habit of bow- 
ing to the people near him on all sides 
in the church before taking his seat in 
his square pew. On the occasion of Pre- 
sident Andrew Jackson's visit to Boston, 
accompanied by Vice-President Van Bu- 
ren, in June, 1833, Mr. Bussey joined the 
grand procession in his yellow coach, 
drawn by six horses, richly caparisoned, 
and attended by liveried servants. 

On the opposite side of South Street 
one sees the very attractive house known 
to us as the Peters homestead, which, in 
1 799, was built by Captain William Gor- 
don Weld. About three years after mak- 
ing this home, Captain Weld was lost at 
sea, leaving his widow, who was a sister of 
Judge William Minot, with a large family 
of sons and daughters, who have been 
very prominent in the interests and devel- 
opment of our town. Mrs. Weld is re- 



OF JAMAICA PLAIN 55 

membered with great respect and admira- 
tion for her character and life-work. She 
Hved to a great age, happy in the pro- 
sperity and the loving devotion of her chil- 
dren. We recall the beautiful and touch- 
ing scene when her form was carried on 
the bier by her noble sons, followed by 
the other mourners, all walking from her 
house to the family tomb in the little 
church cemetery, and lovingly laid at rest, 
without the touch of a stranger hand. 

Soon after Captain William Weld's 
death, the estate was purchased by a Mr. 
Wilson, who resided here for a few years. 
Mr. Horatio Greenough, the sculptor, also 
lived here when young, and it is believed 
that he took his first lessons in art of Bi- 
non, the French sculptor, in this house. 
In 1829 Mr. Edward Peters purchased 
it for a summer residence, and it is still 
occupied by his descendants. This house 
is the finest specimen of the West Indian 
style in this vicinity. Stony Brook runs 
through the dell back of the garden, with 
a line of fine old oaks and butternut-trees 
on its banks. Years since, when trench- 



56 ANNALS AND REMINISCENCES 

ing the land, the smooth bed of the broad 
Stony River was reached, into which some 
of the large trees had fallen and lain im- 
bedded in the mud, well preserved. A 
perfect beaver dam was also discovered 
there, and marks of beavers' teeth on some 
of the trees. Various Indian relics have 
been unearthed in different parts of the 
place. 

About the year 1827, Mr. Stephen M. 
Weld, son of Captain William G. Weld, 
established a boarding-school for young 
men on the site of the present residence 
of his family, the corner of South and 
Centre streets, which was very successful 
during thirty years, pupils coming from 
many of the States and from Mexico, 
Cuba, and Yucatan. Weld Hall, con- 
nected with Harvard College, was erected 
by William F. Weld, in memory of his 
brother Stephen Minot Weld. Dr. Chris- 
topher Weld, another son of Captain 
Weld, was the first homoeopathic physician 
here, and was much esteemed and beloved 
during his long practice. 

Upon the site of the present Seaver 



OF JAMAICA PLAIN 5/ 

mansion, on Morton Street, near Wash- 
ington Street, stood the old house, now 
a few rods further on, the home of the 
gifted and scholarly Margaret Fuller be- 
tween the years 1839 and 1842. Her 
father had died a short time before, and 
her mother, sister (the late Mrs. Walter 
Channing), and two brothers made with 
her the household. In this quiet, rural 
home, Margaret found time and inspira- 
tion for many of her charming outdoor 
sketches. She often wandered through 
the lovely walks in Bussey Woods, soft 
with fallen needles from pine and hem- 
lock, and bright with abundant wild flow- 
ers, and drew glowing pictures from na- 
ture's wealth which her pen has preserved 
for us. It was while living here she in- 
augurated the literary conversations which 
produced such a marked effect upon the 
young and old of the women of that time. 
They were weekly meetings for free con- 
versation on literary and ^Esthetic topics 
at which she was the principal talker. 
They began in the autumn of 1839 at the 
home of Miss Elizabeth P. Peabody, on 



58 ANNALS AND REMINISCENCES 

West Street, Boston, and continued 
through five successive winters. It was 
also while here that she edited " The 
Dial," a quarterly journal, in which she 
was aided by Ralph Waldo Emerson, 
Theodore Parker, George Ripley, and 
others. In this old house Ralph Waldo 
Emerson boarded for a time with a Mrs. 
Tilden, who afterward had a young la- 
dies' boarding-school at the Cold Spring 
House on Washington Street, opposite 
Green Street. In Franklin Park, on 
Schoolmaster's Hill, may now be seen 
a bronze tablet, inserted in a boulder, 
which records the fact that Mr. Emerson 
lived in a farmhouse on that spot for two 
years, from 1823 to 1825. The home of 
Rev. James Freeman Clarke, D. D., on 
Hillside Avenue, has a lasting interest, 
because of the noble, beautiful souls who 
thought and worked there, and gave by 
spoken and written words strength and 
counsel and comfort to m.any. 

Returning to Centre Street, we pass 
south from Eliot Street, and look with 
interest upon the old Williams house, a 



OF JAMAICA PLAIN 59 

commodious, square building with central 
porch and balustrade along the roof-line, 
built in 1805 by Stephen Gorham, a Bos- 
ton merchant. It was for many years the 
attractive home of Mr. Moses Williams 
and family, and is still in their possession. 
The old Hallet, Seaverns, Balch, and 
Louder homes, all suggest interesting and 
valuable memories, which we would gladly 
record did our limits permit. But we are 
tempted to spare a few moments for a 
stroll through Louder's Lane. Many times 
have we proved the truth of Young's 
words : "How blessings brighten as they 
take their flight ! " and they ring in our 
hearts to-day as we wander into this pic- 
turesque old way; and we love even more 
dearly than of yore the quiet, the grassy 
sides, the wild growths of roses and black- 
berry-bushes, the tangle of ivy and wood- 
bine, and the lovely vistas through leafy 
framings of sunny hillsides and Vv^oods, of 
pastures dotted with grazing cattle, and 
of peaceful farm homes. It is a country 
idyl, sw^eet and restful ! We may slacken 
our horse's reins while he crops the way- 



6o ANNALS AND REMINISCENCES 

side grass, or we may sit on a fallen stone 
from the old wall, while we muse of early- 
days when there was no turnstile to block 
our path, but we could wander on around 
the loops of Sargent's woods, and gather 
at will the blue and white violets, the 
anemones and columbines and cowslips, 
without a fear of brass-buttoned monitor 
or coasting wheelman. 

We see again the dignified form of 
Manlius Sargent on his stately horse, as 
he rode through his wood-roads, and many 
another familiar face of those who sought 
these rural paths, and cared not yet for 
" rapid transit," with its spectral accom- 
paniments. And our hope is akin to a 
prayer, that what is left of Lender's Lane 
may be spared to us yet many years. 

The old Winchester house, on the hill- 
side of Centre Street, was built in the 
year 1800 by Captain Artemas Winches- 
ter, grandfather of the third Artemas, now 
residing here, for his young bride. Miss 
Anna Fuller, and it was their home 
through their long lives. 

In early days, whenever a new dwelling 
was begun, the neighborhood volunteered 



OF JAMAICA PLAIN 6l 

their services, prepared and stoned the 
cellar and well, often giving days of labor 
to help on the work. Then at the time 
of raising the house, as in the case of the 
Winchester dwelling, — an unusually fine 
one for the times, — the relatives and 
friends came from near and far to show 
their kindly interest and enjoy the tempt- 
ing: and bounteous collation. 

This farm originally belonged to Mn 
John Morey, who in 1771 presented the 
clock, which for many years ornamented 
the front gallery of the First Church, and 
is to-day faithfully meeting its duties in 
the Parish House. 

Greenbank, a quiet old home overlook- 
ing the Arboretum, holds among its trea- 
sures a record of a few years, when Rev. 
William Ware lived there, after resign- 
ing his ministry in New York, and wrote 
those remarkable works, "Zenobia" and 
" Probus." Mr. Ware was a man of 
great learning, of classical culture, and 
elegant accomplishments. His mind was 
a gallery of pictures which he portrayed 
in his writings for the profit and delight 
of others. Dr. Bellows, in his memorial 



62 ANNALS AND REMINISCENCES 

sermon of Dr. Ware, writes of these books : 
" They evinced talents, resources, and 
tastes, which could not be traced to any 
known writer, while they seemed wholly 
beyond the reach of any unknowjt one." 
On the corner of Allandale Street and 
Centre Street, Peacock Tavern stood a 
century ago. It was kept by Captain 
Lemuel Child, distinguished for having 
led the Minute Company of the Third 
Parish in the battle of Lexington. This 
tavern was a somewhat noted resort at 
that time, being on the direct highway 
from Boston to Dedham and Providence, 
a stopping-place for travelers and stages 
and factory teams. We learn that when 
the British officers were in Boston they 
frequently made up sleighing and skating 
parties, and after exercising on the pond, 
came to " The Peacock " for their late 
suppers. Doubtless Generals Gage and 
Burgoyne indulged in bumpers there, to 
help their drooping spirits. The records 
state that during the siege of Boston, Gen- 
erals Washington and Knox and other 
distinguished officers were frequent visit- 
ors, the former stopping on his way to 



OF JAMAICA PLAIN 63 

New York after the evacuation of Boston. 
In May, 1794, Samuel Adams, the grand 
old patriot, purchased " The Peacock " 
tavern and forty acres of land, and resided 
here during his term as governor, and 
during the remainder of his life made it 
his summer residence. We are proud to 
add this name to our list of honorable 
and distinguished men. It stands insepa- 
rably with Washington, Jefferson, Frank- 
lin, and Hancock, and they form together 
the brightest constellation which illumines 
the Revolutionary annals of our country!^ 
Some of the most apparent and plea- 
sant indications of growth and progress 
in our town have been the establishment, 
from time to time, of the churches, which 
represent the faith and worship of our 
people, the erection of the commodious 
school buildings, and the various chari- 

1 Within our recollection, a very small, old house, on 
the opposite side of the street, almost hidden from view 
by shrubbery and trees, was the humble home of old 
Simeon Giles, a negro, who made a precarious living by 
wood-chopping and like service for the neighbors. He 
was the son of old Peter, who was a slave of Governor 
Adams, valued and kindly treated, and who lived to 
number one hundred years. Long, long ago their tired 
bodies were laid at rest in the little graveyard on the hill. 



64 ANNALS OF JAMAICA PLAIN 

table institutions. Strongly as we cling 
to much that makes the past dear to us, 
we rejoice in all that is making this the 
golden age of our country. 

Within the limits given, it is impossible 
to review all of the homes and characters 
which have left their impress on our vil- 
lage and made it worthy to be a part of 
the admitted " Athens of America." A 
long line of names comes at memory's call, 
in the various walks of life, — clergymen, 
authors, teachers, physicians, lawyers, and 
merchants, men and women whom we 
delight to honor. 

" They hurry from out the forgotten past, 
Through the gathered mist of years, 
From the halls of memory, dim and vast, 
Where they have buried lain in the shadows cast 
By recent joys or fears." 

More than three hundred years ago the 
poet Drummond wrote : " It is a great 
spur to virtue to look back on the worth of 
our line. In this is the memory of the 
dead preserved with the living, being more 
firm and honorable than an epitaph, and 
the livins: know that band that tieth them 
to others." 



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